G’day, Shug here. I make my bollards in my workshop in Mooroolbark and I install them myself, right across Melbourne: east, south-east, west and north. If you want a bollard that’s built properly and put in the ground properly, you’re in the right place.
People are often surprised when I tell them I supply and install. A lot of sellers will tell you bollards are easy to put in and anyone can do it. I’ll be straight with you: for most people they’re not. I’ve been called out to plenty of botched installs over the years to repair or replace bollards that someone else put in. That’s why I do my own. The install matters as much as the bollard.
What I install
- Removable bollards. A steel sleeve is set into a concrete footing and the bollard drops in and locks with a key. Unlock it, lift it out, drive through, drop it back in. No power, no motors, no remotes. Every Shug Removable Bollard comes with its in-ground sleeve and key.
- Bolt-down removable bollards. For when you can’t dig, like the Chelsea driveway I did where there were services under the concrete.
- The Bulldog collapsible bollard. It bolts down on a heavy 8 mm base plate and folds flat when you need to drive over it. There’s nothing to carry or store. I’ve put these in unit car spaces in Toorak, car parks, laneways and driveways.
- Permanent bollards. Set in concrete for spots where vehicles never need to get through, like shopfronts, glass doors and windows, or in front of fridges and racking where forklifts work.
- The Rhino protection bollard. It bolts down into a concrete footing on a 10–12 mm base plate. It can be filled with concrete for extra strength, and special footings for asphalt can be included.
- The Shug Rebound Bollard. It has a rubber membrane system so it moves on impact and springs back. It suits forklift areas, car parks and fast-food driveways.
- Gas meter bollards. In Victoria, the gas distributors require protective bollards when a meter sits within one metre of a driveway or vehicle area.
- Custom bollards and barriers. If what you need isn’t on the list, I can usually make it.
How an install works
Every site is different, but most jobs follow the same steps.
- Tell me about the site. Let me know where the bollards are going and what you need to keep out. I’m happy to come out to your home or business, take a look and give you my recommendation.
- Get the underground services located. Before anything is drilled or dug, pipes and cables need to be found. Under my installation terms it’s your job to arrange the locating and share the report with me if I ask. It’s a small step that saves a lot of grief.
- Mark it out. I mark each bollard’s spot so they line up and there’s room to lift a removable bollard in and out without hitting anything.
- Core drill or dig. On a concrete slab I core drill a neat hole for each sleeve. At Laverton North I core-drilled right up against a roller door. Where there’s no slab, I dig a footing.
- Set the sleeve or footing. The sleeve goes in centred and upright, checked with a spirit level, and the concrete goes in around it. Each sleeve is set at the right depth so the bollard locks securely and lifts out smoothly for years. The concrete typically needs 24–48 hours to set before the bollard goes in.
- Bolt-down units (the Bulldog, the Rhino, the Rebound and the bolt-down removable) are fixed to the concrete instead of sleeved.
- Hand over. I show you how to lock and unlock it, and you get your keys.
A couple of things I’ll always tell you up front. Concrete and asphalt can chip or crack when they’re drilled. Core plugs and rubble stay on site unless we’ve agreed otherwise. My installation terms cover these.
The kinds of sites I work on
- Homes, driveways and garages. For example, a garage in Sunshine, the Chelsea driveway, and home driveways right across Melbourne.
- Units and shared car parks. Stopping other people parking in your spot.
- Schools and childcare. For example, a row of Shug Enforcer removable bollards at Ringwood North Primary School. See also school and childcare protection.
- Bottle shops and shopfronts. For example, the BWS Bayswater drive-through, with BWS stores in Eltham, Richmond and Olinda Creek as well, plus a FoodWorks shopfront. See stopping ram raids.
- Factories, warehouses and roller doors. For example, a Bayswater factory protected after a ram raid next door, and permanent bollards keeping forklifts off fridges in Laverton North.
- Councils and authorities. Bollards made to spec for Maroondah Council, Yarra Ranges Council and Melbourne Water.
Where I install
I’m based in Mooroolbark and I install Melbourne-wide. In the east that’s Bayswater, Boronia, Croydon, Ringwood and Lilydale. In the south-east it’s Dandenong, Keysborough, Clayton and Moorabbin. In the west it’s Sunshine, Laverton North, Derrimut and Truganina. In the north it’s Epping, Thomastown, Campbellfield and Tullamarine. Those are just a sample. If your suburb isn’t listed, give me a call anyway.
Doing it yourself?
Some people do put their own bollards in. If that’s you, my step-by-step guide to installing a Shug removable bollard walks through the tools and each stage. Be honest with yourself about the gear and the time it takes, though. Most installs are better left to someone with the right gear.
Bollard installation FAQs
Do you supply and install?
Yes. I make the bollards in Mooroolbark and install them myself across Melbourne. If you’d rather fit them yourself, you can also buy the Shug Removable Bollard and the Bulldog in my online shop.
Do I need to find out what’s under the ground first?
Yes. Pipes and cables have to be located before any drilling or digging. Under my installation terms, arranging that is the customer’s responsibility.
How soon can I use a removable bollard after it’s installed?
The concrete around the sleeve typically needs 24–48 hours to set before the bollard goes in and is locked.
What if there are services under my driveway?
A bolt-down removable bollard can be the answer. That’s exactly what I used on a Chelsea driveway where an in-ground sleeve wasn’t possible.
How much does bollard installation cost?
It depends on the site, the surface and how many bollards you need, so the best way to find out is to get a free quote.
